pixabay campervan desert drive

Campervans: Upgrades and Audio Systems

Day vans, campervans, motorhomes; whatever you call them, they have never been so popular. Two of the most familiar conversions are the Fiat Ducato / Peugeot Boxer / Citroen Relay and the evergreen VW Transporter. Whatever you drive, at Car and Home Stereo we have a vast range of products to improve your enjoyment when out and about.

Keeping it quiet:

If we can get to the vehicle before it is converted we recommend a comprehensive sound deadening treatment. This involves using a combination of Dynamat Xtreme and Dynaliner foam sheet to remove vibration, dramatically reduce road noise and to thermally insulate the vehicle.

dynamat car sound system

campervan interior sound system car and home stereo macclesfield

Dynamat is a thin and light sheet that is applied to the metal panels and prevents any vibration from being transmitted. This means an enormous reduction in road noise. It is applied to floor, sides, doors, and roof for optimum effect.  Dynaliner sheets are then applied over the Dynamat in varying thicknesses to create a thermal and acoustic barrier.

dynamat sound insulation installation car and home stereo macclesfield

This insulation retains heat and again reduces external noise even further. When done properly the van will be significantly quieter and warmer. If the van has already been converted then it is still advisable to treat any panels that can be accessed as any amount will be beneficial. The Dynamat advantage is that as the patented market leader it is lighter and more efficient than any other product meaning you can use less.

Finding your way:

The joys of the open road are many and the ability to just start up and go are what make camper vans so appealing but really knowing where you are going and how to get there can definitely reduce the stress. Of course, I’m talking about navigation and we have a wide range of solutions available to be fitted. One of my favourites is made by Pioneer; whilst there are many great units out there I think the Pioneer AVIC F980DAB-C camper version is one of the best.

sat nav pioneer car and home stereo macclesfield

The feature list for this unit is extremely impressive as it boasts CD, DVD, FM/AM/DAB tuner, Bluetooth, Apple Car Play, dual USB, reverse camera input and of course class leading satellite navigation. All this performance, however, is not complex to use and that is one of the main reasons for its success. Pioneer have put a lot of effort into keeping the user interface simple meaning you can keep your eyes on the road, navigation instructions are clear and given in plenty of time for a safer drive. As this is the camper version the software is specifically designed for larger vehicles to ensure a safe route is calculated. It also contains a massive ten million points of interest database for the whole of the European continent to make sure you are completely informed.


Another fantastic unit is by Alpine and offers a massive 8-inch touchscreen. This unit is custom designed for the VW T5 / T6 and is quite simply stunning.

alpine unit 8 inch touch screen campervan T5 T6 car and home stereo macclesfield

With a feature list as long as your arm this unit is unbeatable and as it has been designed from the ground up for the VW it blends seamlessly with all the vehicle systems.

To get the best out of these sophisticated systems it is imperative that they are correctly fitted. At Car and Home Stereo we have been installing audio systems in Cheshire for over 40 years and in fact were one of the first to install navigation in the UK. We have vast experience with these products and of course have all the ancillary parts to ensure a seamless fit in your dashboard.

Reverse with confidence:

One of the downsides of a camper or in fact any larger vehicle is the rear view. It can range from difficult to impossible to see backwards. Many newer vehicles are fitted with reverse sensors and that is certainly something we can fit your camper but there is no substitute to actually seeing what is there. We would always recommend a reverse camera. If you do not have a screen already we can install one discreetly and reversing will no longer be a chore. If you use the vehicle to tow then the camera can be angled to view the tow bar; making hitching up so much easier.

reverse camera vehicle campervan tow bar car and home stereo macclesfield

Using a combination of mirrors, camera and sensors reversing into the tightest of spots will be a breeze.

Sounds fantastic:

Your camper is a true “home from home” but as they are often based on commercial vans, unfortunately, the audio performance can leave a lot to be desired. As one of the leading audio installers in the UK, we are ideally placed to make this better for you. In fact, this is an area where we excel as our experience with leisure vehicles is extremely broad.

If you already have an upgraded head unit or are happy with the one you have then we would recommend a speaker upgrade for the front doors and while we’re at it why not add some speakers to the rear of the vehicle? One of our favourites is by Italian manufacturer Audison. The Voce K6 is a component set for the doors or dash and offers a true HiFi performance when correctly installed.

We also have custom designed subwoofer enclosures that can be completely hidden meaning you can have a full sound without losing any useful space.  We often use the JL Audio 6w3 subwoofer as its compact size and stunning performance make it ideal when space is at a premium.

JL audio subwoofer car sound system car and home stereo macclesfield

speaker box car sound system installation campervan car and home stereo macclesfield

Here’s one we built into the rear of a Land Rover Defender showing how small the speaker box can be while still producing a tremendous bass performance.

Don’t wait:

With summer almost upon us, it’s definitely time to get these jobs done. Whether you want a complete upgrade to your leisure vehicle audio or maybe just want a bit better sound we can help. We are the car audio experts in Cheshire and are here to help. If you are local to Macclesfield please call into our shop on Sunderland Street or simply give us a call on 01625 432707 our advice is free. If you do choose to upgrade we can offer up to a three-year warranty on products as well as a lifetime warranty on all installation for peace of mind, heck we’ll even throw in a cup of coffee!


Summer Is Here!

Summer is here (at least for the next few days). So what could be better than driving your convertible with the roof down at last? So good to feel the wind in your hair, not so good if you want to listen to your music. What used to sound great with the roof up is now hollow sounding with a weak bass response and turning the bass up just makes everything muddy sounding. This phenomenon also occurs with the windows wound down on a conventional car to a slightly lesser extent. So what’s going on and how can we fix it?

As we know sound waves are just compression ripples in the air, in a car these waves are generated by the speakers and when the air is still and contained in a small cabin we do not need much energy to get a decent sound level. However, if we create large holes in the structure by opening the windows or taking the roof off we have opened the speakers up to the outside world. Suddenly your small speakers are trying to fill the world with sound; on top of that, they have to compete with more road and wind noise as well as all the air turbulence.

mini cooper diagram showing sound contained inside the car mini cooper diagram showing sound lost to the outside world

It would be OK if all frequencies were affected evenly and all that was needed was more power but unfortunately, this is not the case. Without getting into the technical reasons what we find is that the higher frequencies tend to be less affected but the mid-range clarity is lost and the bass is severely reduced. Try it for yourself, listen to a piece of music you know well while driving and then open the windows. It is obvious from the pictures above that far less sound is going to reach your ears.

What we need is to be able to adjust the sound to compensate for the changes brought about by opening the car. Certainly we need more power by adding an amplifier but more importantly, we need to be able to adjust the sound for the different configurations of the car so that it always sounds the same.

To achieve this we have a range of digital signal processors at Car and Home Stereo that we can configure and program to solve the problem. The two leading units are the JL Audio TwK88 and the Audison Bit family of processor/amplifiers. These powerful processors can be programmed to allow precise tuning of the vehicle acoustics and most importantly have multiple pre-set capabilities which allow the user to switch between different tunings for different conditions.

So how do we do it?

The process requires taking acoustic measurements with the vehicle roof up and down. The same can be done for a non-convertible car with windows closed and open.  We use a combination of spectrum analysers and FFT (Fast Fourier Transform) measurements to map the acoustic signature of the vehicle interior. By playing a test signal (usually pink noise) we can see what the placement of the speakers and vehicle interior is doing to the sound and of course, we can do the same with the car open.

setting up car stereo system

Once we have the measurements we can start to tune the system. We start the process by adjusting time delays and phase controls to see if there are any cancellations being brought about by speaker positioning, we will also adjust speaker crossover points for the same reason. We do this first because no amount of EQ tuning would compensate for a phase issue and in fact, would probably make the sound worse. It also means less work for the processor which will ultimately give me more control. The goal is a clean, flat response to the test signal which we can use as a starting point for the real world tuning for the customer.

What’s Next?

Once we have the desired response for the car in the closed condition we look at the measurements for the converted configuration. The difference in the original measurements can now be compensated for by re-tuning the system and saving to a second pre-set. Once again we start with phase adjustments as with the top off there will be far less reflected sound and the speaker phase conditions will be different.

The result is the same audio performance for both configurations of the vehicle and at the touch of a button, you can switch between the two presets meaning great sound regardless of hood position.

audison controller in mercedes ashtray

We mounted the Audison controller for this Mercedes in the ash tray making it quick and easy to change presets but invisible when the cover was closed.

audison controller in mercedes ashtray closed

This tuning process is not simple and many different factors have to be considered as the adjustments are made. It also requires accurate and quite sophisticated measurement tools and at Car and Home Stereo we have invested in these to ensure we can achieve the best possible performance for our customers. We can also use these tools to identify acoustic problems in audio systems and we are more than happy to run a diagnostic on your car to help you choose the right way forward to better sound.

If you would like to take advantage of our test equipment or wish to discuss any aspect of tuning please feel free to call me on 01625 432707 or even better call into our shop on Sunderland Street in Macclesfield for a chat and a listen to our demonstrator.

Life In The Loud Lane

At Car and Home Stereo we are dedicated to getting the best possible sound in your car. We will carefully match your needs to the best equipment and electronics to achieve that goal. We have access to a vast range of products so that we can tailor a system that is perfectly suited to you and your car. Of course what everyone wants is different and two extremes were both in the workshop at the same time recently.

If you have read the Lotus Evora blog you will know that the emphasis was on a stealthy install with the aim to produce a highly detailed soundstage. This was achieved with a full Audison system using the amazing AP8.9 Bit amplifier, Voce speakers and Prima sub, a simple system boasting 520W, more than enough power for the small cabin of the Evora. The final tuned sound of this car was fantastic. The music was surrounding with detail and punch where it needed it.

In the adjacent workshop bay at the same time was a Vauxhall Astra van and the brief for this one was very different. This had to sound good but most importantly it needed the ability to crush you with bass! Being a van we had plenty of space to work with but on the down side all that metal was a prime candidate for epic vibration. Power supply was always going to be an issue from the standard battery and of course with the power we were going to need, the standard wiring would not be adequate.

How we did it:

The first job would be to strip the vehicle for acoustic treatment. Every panel had to be coated to make sure all the enormous energy of the subs was retained inside. There’s no point in installing a 3000W system if 1000W gets out, it might sound good to passers-by but if you’ve paid for all that power, you want to hear it all. Once treated, tapping on any metal panel sounded like tapping on wood. There was no resonance and as a bonus road noise was reduced to almost nothing. The doors were treated with more Dynamat Xtreme to improve the acoustic response of the front speakers and again reduce road noise.

What next?:

The power supply was upgraded with two auxiliary Optima yellow top, deep cycle batteries with a split charge system. Even though the MTX bass amps are ‘D’ class they still draw a significant current and it was important to make sure this would not drain the vehicle battery. This kind of power has to be made safe and that means fuses on each battery and on each supply to the amplifiers, there may only be 12 Volts but the current capacity on the Optima batteries is more than enough to melt any cable and incorrect fusing could cause a fire if short circuited.

Once the power supply was installed we could mount the amps on the forward bulkhead. As this was destined for the show scene we made sure that everything was as neat as could be.

The eagle eyed of you will spot the cut outs for the MTX 6×9 speakers below the amps. This is an unconventional position for speakers as they are behind the seats but they will add a much needed boost to the low mid-range to complement the component speakers in the doors.

The three main amps are MTX RT1000.1Ds, These develop 1000W each at 2 Ohms which is why they need 50mm sq. power cable! The rest of the speakers are powered by a JL Audio XD400/4 and everything is kept under control by the Audison Bit 10. The front speakers were mounted in the standard location on custom collars and the tweeters were mounted into custom ‘A’ pillar pods.

This improved the staging for the front and solved the problem of the size of the tweeter being too large for the factory location.

So what about the subs I hear you cry!

Well this had to be the show stopper so we knew we would have to build something a bit special. The MTX TX612 is a beast of a sub.

With its awesome power handling capability we knew we could really push this speaker. It has incredible excursion and that red, double stitched hinge is not just for show. We wanted to get the most from this driver so we opted for an optimised slot ported enclosure, one for each sub. As you can imagine there is a significant amount of weight here so we also had to make sure that there was no possibility that any of this structure could move. Safety is always prominent in our minds when designing any system.

This is the finished enclosure although there will be trimmed wheel arch boxes either side for storage.

The auxiliary batteries and fuses are located behind the enclosure and are accessible by removing the top trim panel. There will be a voltage display mounted in the right hand arch box so battery condition can be monitored. The main fuse and Stinger 500A peak split charge relay are mounted in the bonnet with the vehicle battery.

Did we fulfil our brief?

And then some! With the tailgate open the bass completely dominates and you can feel the sound waves pushing your chest. If you dare to put your head inside the boot you’re immediately disorientated by the sound pressure level. When sat in the front you can hear the rest of the music as well and now that awesome bass complements rather than overpowers. Of course there is a level control for the bass but the temptation is to turn it up for the biggest smiles!

At Car and Home Stereo we know that this sort of system is not for everyone and we always ensure you get exactly what you need so regardless of what vehicle please give us a call and we can start your journey to a better sound.


A, AB, D or All Three? Pick Your Amp!

Amplifiers, such a range but which is right for you? I’d like to discuss amplifier types and applications.

As a Four Master, Car and Home Stereo are recognised as one of the leading car audio installers in the country. Our knowledge and experience mean that we are ideally placed to choose the right equipment and install it to the highest standard.  We offer a no pressure approach and are happy to offer advice on choosing the right equipment; just recently I had a great conversation over Facebook with an enthusiast in Australia over the benefits of the magnificent Rainbow Profi speakers.

Commonly I am asked “how many Watts is it?” but there is so much more to an amplifier than that. In reality, the Watts figure is often not the most useful specification when choosing between amplifiers. True it gives a simple indication of power but all too often that figure is heavily massaged to look higher. I have tested some so-called 3000W amplifiers to discover that they only made 200W at the terminals into a speaker load. Still an impressive output but certainly not 3000W as claimed.

But I digress; we are looking today at amplifier types and their uses. There are three types of amplifiers in main use today they are classed as A, AB and D. Although they all have the same purpose there are some fundamental differences between them that make them suit different applications.

At the heart of an amplifier are the power transistors, these are responsible for taking a small signal and making it larger, the classification describes how the transistors are used. Of course, there is a massive range of qualities and performance variations related to each type but we will stick to classes.

Class A, a typical sound wave.

As we know, Sound is an oscillating wave. This wave has a positive and a negative component but is symmetrical about the ‘t’ axis. So all we need is one big transistor that can amplify the whole signal to whatever power we want right? Well yes and this is the ideal solution for sonic accuracy; the high output signal is an exact copy of the small input signal. The best amplifiers I have ever heard have all been A class with a sound that is open, transparent and simply a joy to listen to.

The magnificent Audison Thesis Venti

However, all this purity comes at a price; huge power consumption. Those massive transistors are switched on all the time regardless of whether there is a signal there or not or how loud it’s playing. This means heat and lots of it which has to be dissipated. So we need massive power supplies and large heatsinks which make the amplifier large and somewhat inefficient, typically around 20%. That’s why we need to use such large power cable!

So how do we get better efficiency? Class AB.


There are many considerations here but in very simplistic terms it is possible to use one transistor to amplify the top half of the wave and another matched transistor to amplify the bottom half. This means that smaller transistors can be used and they are only on for half the time leading to efficiencies of 50 to 70%. This means less heat and smaller power supplies which help to keep the cost down.

The JL Audio JX360, a mainstay of many audio systems

There are some drawbacks to class AB, principally of which is crossover distortion.

As a matched pair of transistors has to amplify the whole wave it is essential that they turn off and on at exactly the right moment (the class B part). Imagine two people writing the letter S where one person only writes one-half and the other person completes it, there is bound to be a little error. The same is true in the amplifier leading to a very slight distortion of the output wave but in truth, modern design can almost eliminate this meaning we can have a really great sounding amp that is pretty efficient. This has meant that AB design has dominated the market for decades.

The highest efficiency is class D.
Let’s get something straight, D does not stand for digital. Class D is just another design type, a really clever one. This design uses pulse width modulation to generate the amplified output which involves switching the output transistors on and off at a very high rate typically around 300 kHz. This High switching frequency means any noise is well above our audible range and the PWM leads to astonishing efficiencies of around 95% or higher. So, at last, we have a very high power, high quality and very efficient amplifier. It is fair to say that most mainstream car amplifiers today are D class as they are smaller, lighter and generate less heat than their A or AB counterparts.

The JL Audio XD400.4, small but powerful

As with almost everything, there has to be a downside and with D class their Achilles heel is radio interference. The switching frequency mentioned might not be audible but it can do a fine job of broadcasting in the FM radio range. This can lead to reduced radio reception at certain frequencies, of course, modern design does mitigate the problem but nevertheless, it can still be an issue.

So to sum up, Class A for the best possible sound (ideal for tweeters), Class AB for improved efficiency (ideal for midrange) and Class D for maximum power from the smallest chassis (ideal for subwoofers). Wouldn’t it be great if there was an amplifier with all three? Well, there is and it is called the 5.1K from Audison.


The superb and versatile Audison 5.1K

This is one of my all-time favourite amplifiers and it is the amp that powers my own personal system. The detail of the class A front stage is phenomenal while the AB class mid-stage offers an amazing amount of punch. The D class sub stage has enough power to rattle the windows but offers a fidelity that allows a seamless blend with the rest of the audio stage. This unit never fails to impress and is not too big to make it impossible to fit. It does get hot if driven hard but does not require special cooling if mounted sensibly.


If you would like to hear what the 5.1K can do then please feel free to call into our shop on Sunderland Street in Macclesfield and I would be pleased to demonstrate it in our Discovery or on the demonstration stand in store. If you would like any more information on amplifiers in general please call me on 01625 432707.



Gain An Advantage: Amplifier

Anyone who has dabbled in car audio will have come across an amplifier at some point. They come in many shapes, sizes, and outputs but from the cheapest eBay special to eye wateringly expensive European exotica they all have one purpose, to get the musical signal to the speakers. The amplifier is, therefore, sat between the CD player and the speakers accepting the low-level input signal and converting it to a high power speaker output. I don’t want to get too bogged down in technicalities but let’s discuss the different types available and the controls we are given.

The JL Audio RD900.5 is a perfect example. This 5 channel, D class amplifier is capable of running a complete car audio system with front speakers, rear speakers, and a subwoofer. Alternatively, it could run a pair of front speakers bridged for enormous power plus a subwoofer once again. So, the RD900.5 is a very high performance, a flexible amplifier with a pretty small footprint making it easy to install.

The input stage is on the far left of this amplifier and comprises the usual red and white RCA connectors. There are 3 pairs that equate to the front, rear and sub input. Above these are three switches that allow for hi or low-level input, auto turn on mode and input channel selection (2, 4 or 6). Not all amplifiers are equipped with these selectors but these add to the RD900.5 flexibility.

The next stage is what interests us here, the frequency filter and the gain controls. The RD 900.5 is nonsymmetrical meaning that all channels are not identical. Channels 1 to 4 are for main speakers while 5 and 6 are for subwoofers. Therefore there is a variable high pass filter for 1 to 4 and a low pass filter for 5 and 6.

What is the filter for you ask? It is used to remove frequencies that are not required by the speaker on that channel. If we know we have a subwoofer fitted then it makes no sense to send the very low frequencies to the door speakers. Sub frequencies require a speaker cone to move a great distance and most door speakers simply cannot achieve this without distortion, I’m sure you have all heard a speaker trying too hard causing the classic ‘burping’ sound. In extreme cases, the speaker coil can be heard crashing into the back plate creating a clapping noise. Either situation is undesirable so to prevent these from occurring the frequency filter is applied to restrict the low tones.

The cutoff frequency is variable to suit different speakers and installations and setting it correctly requires the use of a signal generator. If you do not have access to one of these then it is possible to do roughly by ear, simply play music and slowly raise the filter frequency until there are no very low sounds in the speaker. The result will be a much clearer sound with no distortion. The mid definition should be greatly improved meaning vocals will cut through better. Typically the filter control is graduated and a very rough initial setting for a typical door speaker would be around 80Hz but you should experiment either side of this to find the best setting.

The subwoofer (low-pass) filter is the opposite of the high pass filter as it removes the higher frequencies sent to the sub. This ensures it only gets useful frequencies and we do not waste amplifier energy trying to make it play the higher tones.

Again the cutoff frequency is variable but what we want is to blend the sub with the main speakers so it is important to find a filter point that complements the high pass filter for the speakers.

So now we come to the input sensitivity, perhaps one of the most misunderstood controls. First and foremost it is not a volume control. Sure, it does increase the volume as you turn it but that does not mean it is increasing the amplifier power. Let’s consider what an amplifier is doing, it is taking a small signal and making it bigger. That signal is very dynamic meaning it is made up of loud and quiet parts, an extreme example could be Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture. Not something we listen to every day but it serves our example very well. If you are not familiar with the piece it starts very quietly and builds to a crescendo of orchestra and cannons. A more modern piece would be Warriors Dance by Prodigy but with fewer cannons!

The most important thing to consider when setting the sensitivity is that the amplifier only has a finite amount of power, let’s say 100Watts. That is represented by the upper dotted line on the graphs above. Our goal is to get the maximum, undistorted output.

If we look at a typical input sound wave it is obvious that there are loud and quiet parts. As we stated the amplifier is there to make this signal louder. Now let’s add the maximum amplifier power to the input signal graph.

As we increase the sensitivity we increase the size of the input signal at the input stage to the amplifier and remember there is a finite amount of power available. So what happens if we go too far?

As can be seen the nice smooth curves at the top and bottom of the loud spikes have been flattened which is clipped distortion. So yes we have a loud sound but it will be fuzzy and unpleasant. It will also damage speakers as the flat tops of the wave are a DC signal that will only induce heat into the voice coils. So if we take our example, the 1812 Overture, with the sensitivity set as above the quiet passages will sound good but the loud sections will be badly distorted and this will get worse the louder we play it.

For the best sound and maximum output, it is imperative that the loudest sounds are not clipped. Normally this would be set up with an oscilloscope but it can also be done with a voltmeter by measuring the output for maximum unclipped voltage as long as you know the true output power.

Fortunately, the JL Audio RD amplifiers have a brilliant feature, a clip indicator. This will light up if the signal is distorted by over ambitious sensitivity meaning setting up is made much easier.

At Car and Home Stereo, we want all our installations to give the best possible sound and that is why we carefully set up each and every one.

If you would like to have your system checked for any problems and to find solutions to these we would love to measure your car using our state of the art test equipment. These can highlight deficiencies in the sound stage that are difficult to locate just by listening.

As usual, I have run out of space so I’ll leave amplifier types and their best application for another time. But please don’t hesitate to call on 01625 432707 if you have any questions.

Why Does Installation Matter?

At Car and Home Stereo we have been installing exceptional car audio for over 40 years, in fact, when we started there were barely the beginnings of in-car entertainment. Over those years we have seen a tremendous amount of change in the products we use to create outstanding audio experiences. From 8 track cartridge to CD to full digital audio, graphic equalisers to digital signal processors and all the other innovations that have come along we have embraced and utilised these to realise the best possible sound for our customers.

All these fabulous products are available to everybody, there has never been so much choice but all this technology will not guarantee a great sound. That will only be possible with the correct installation and careful setup. Many times I have had a car in that has had a lot of money spent on it yet still sounds bad. From buzzing door panels to downright dangerous wiring I’ve seen it all. Usually from DIY installations but not always. It’s not necessarily the fault of the equipment but rather a combination of poor choice and skimped installation.

It is true that the majority of my work is completely invisible but makes such a massive difference to either the finished sound or the reliability of the whole system.  Application of sound deadening material inside doors will improve the acoustic performance, soldering all connections may take longer but will improve reliability, looming cable runs with fleece tape is expensive but will eliminate any cable rattles and retain the OE look.

It is also important that equipment and wiring are installed to the highest standards to maintain vehicle warranties and safety standards. I have seen microphone cables wrapped around airbags, power cables attached to car batteries without a fuse and any amount of speaker wires dangling over brake pedals. At Car and Home Stereo, we take installation very seriously and we never rush. The best results are not achieved by racing to finish and I would rather spend an extra hour or two to get the best possible sound. After all, you would want your £1000 Rainbow speakers to sound their best.

Of course the same care and attention is applied whether we install top of the range JL Audio speakers or entry level Audison upgrades and in fact, the performance boost from proper door treatment at the lower price range is more apparent.

We will always recommend appropriate enhancements and best installation practices are rigorously followed which may take a little longer and cost a little more but will ultimately lead to a far better sound and is that not what we all really want?


Practicing Safe Sound

There are many ways to upgrade your car audio system and let’s face it, most cars need it. I’m looking at you BMW, VW and Porsche in particular! It is not always possible to upgrade the head unit but it is always possible to improve the speakers. At Car and Home Stereo, we carry speakers by JL Audio, Audison, Hertz, Rainbow and others. This means we can choose the right speaker to suit the car and the customer. We will carefully install your speakers with custom built collars and fittings as well as add sound deadening in the door to improve its acoustic properties. The end result will be a vastly better sound without any cosmetic changes to your car.

And that is where we are finished but before you leave, a word of warning. Please take the time to run your new speakers in. The running in period varies for different speakers but generally, we recommend around 10 hours play time. Running in means keeping the volume at a sensible level without any large bass settings and we will always advise what should be the maximum volume for this period.

If this procedure is not followed your speakers may not fail but they will not reach their full potential, let me explain why.

A speaker is a transducer that converts electrical energy into sound and at the heart of the speaker is a coil of wire sitting inside a magnet. It is bright, shiny copper.

coil speakers good copper

It’s not necessary to know how it works but the important point is that when you pass electricity through a wire heat is generated and the higher the electrical current the more heat is generated. Now, this coil of wire is crucial to the accuracy of the speaker and it is protected by a thin coating of lacquer. This lacquer is quite soft when new and easily damaged by heat but if it is gently warmed over a number of hours the lacquer will harden.

I bet you can see where this is going! If a new speaker is subjected to a lot of power and played loud the voice coil lacquer will boil causing short circuits. Now while this will not necessarily cause the speaker to fail it will mean that the voice coil is not a single continuous wire which leads to a ‘lumpy’ effect within the magnetic gap. This, of course, means that the reproduction of sound is not linear and your investment will not reach its true performance capability. In extreme circumstances, the lacquer is burnt and expands into the magnetic gap which will cause a scratchy sound. These failures are non-reversible, cannot be repaired and are not covered under any warrantee.


coil bad burnt copper

burnt copper coil

So that is why we advise the running in period, to gently warm the voice coil lacquer causing it to cure. This hardened lacquer can now stand the heat of high power and your speakers will really perform as the designers intended.

I cannot overstate the importance of running in, a speaker is more likely to be damaged in the first few hours of use rather than over the rest of its life. At Car and Home Stereo, we want you to get the best possible sound from our expert installation so just hold back on the volume for a few hours, you’ll be glad you did.


landrover defender stock

Upgrading the Defender

The Land Rover Defender is a true British classic design. Although, now sadly out of production, the longevity of the Defender means that they will be on (and off) our roads for a great many years to come.

landrover defender stock

It’s design hasn’t changed much in its 70 years and, despite continuous improvements to comfort the audio, performance has always been poor. A relatively noisy environment coupled with small speakers has always meant the sound in the Defender has a lot left to be desired!

As Macclesfield in Cheshire is a fairly rural community there are a lot of these vehicles about as you can imagine and over the years I have developed an audio upgrade package which is powerful and discreet.

The first challenge is the speaker size. Being only 10 cm without modification means that the bass performance is limited. Step forward JL Audio! As the undisputed leaders in subwoofer design, JL Audio are perfectly placed to design speakers that have a much better bass response. This is not to say that a 4 inch speaker can replace a subwoofer but JL Audio’s expertise means that you will get a massive improvement over the stock speaker.

c2 400 subwoofer

To bring the bass response up to the required standard we need to fit in a subwoofer. The irony is that although the Defender is a large utility vehicle, there is almost nowhere to discreetly install a sub box without compromising useful space. JL Audio is here to the rescue, again, with their amazing sub, the 6w3.

jl subwoofer

This astonishing unit is a true 6 inch subwoofer. It is optimized for a tiny enclosure of just 0.125 cu ft. I have developed a carpet trimmed speaker box that will fit just under the roll cage bar behind the front seat. One can be used but for best results we recommend one either side to create an effective 12 inch sub. This allows for a much smoother performance and really blends with the music.


So now we have a sub we are going to need an amplifier. Again, space is limited but fortunately there is room under the driver’s seat for a compact unit. It makes no sense to just amplify the sub so we always install a multi-channel unit to power sub and speakers.

Here we must address the acoustic issues in the vehicle because of the speaker layout and the rather boxy interior of the Defender the sound staging is challenging to say the least. It is essential to install some sort of signal processor or regardless of the quality of the installed equipment, the sound stage will be poor.

I now always use the Audison Prima AP9Bit amplifier. This amazing unit has a full digital signal processor coupled to a powerful 8 channel amplifier in a very compact chassis.


This amplifier can be configured in any way I need depending on the complexity of the installed system. In the Defender it can be a 5 or 6 way for one or two subs. I can then configure the signal processor for the car acoustics and the personal musical tastes of the owner. The software is very powerful, providing  full spectrum equalization on every channel with very fine time alignment available to place the sound stage where it needs to be.

audison speaker amplifier

As a musician I can appreciate the subtleties of sound and this software allows me to bring out the finer details of the music even in a challenging environment like the Land Rover Defender. I am often challenged by owners who say you can’t get a good sound in a Defender but I guarantee that I can. I have installed many of these systems now, both for private individuals and for local dealerships, the feedback is always the same, that they just can’t believe how good this sounds. One customer even came back to tell me that the sound was better than in his Bentley GT!

It is true that the kit described above is extremely good but without the ability to carefully tune it the results would be arable at best. That is where I can make the biggest difference, my experience and exacting standards mean that this great equipment can be enjoyed to its true potential and I feel that this is true value.


Whatever you own, Land Rover, Lamborghini, Lotus or any other car with a challenging audio performance I can make it better, give Tim a call on 01625 432707 or email sales@carhomestereo.co.uk to start your journey to better sound.


Sharp and Sleek Bose Soundtouch Speakers

We are proud to introduce the latest addition to the Bose Soundtouch family, the Soundtouch 300.
This innovative sound bar offers a level of flexibility and performance that has never been seen before.


















Bose has always been a technology led company and over the years have developed a range of home audio systems that have revolutionised the way we see, and use Hi-Fi.

The Bose Soundtouch platform has taken the wireless, networked audio market to new heights of performance which, coupled with its elegance and simplicity of use has made it the market leader.
The Soundtouch 300 is the first in a new range of home theatre systems that feature amazing performance, stunning looks and an unrivaled feature set.
The new black glass top has been engineered by one of the most famous automotive glass producers in the world while the sleek design draws from years of in house development.

At the heart of the system  is the new sound bar.

















This can connect to your TV via HDMI or optical ensuring complete compatibility.
It contains the now famous Bose AdaptIQ software to ensure the best possible sound in any room regardless of size or shape and once connected to your home internet network you can stream all your music to it via WiFi or Bluetooth.

But of course it doesn’t end there as there are also a couple of optional upgrades.



















If you enjoy the power and performance of modern films you should add the incredible Acoustimass 300 sub. This relatively small unit can be mounted anywhere in the room as it utilises a wireless connection to the sound bar. All it requires is a mains connection. The AdaptIQ software can perfectly integrate the sub into the acoustic environment.

The second optional upgrade is the Acoustimass 300 rear speakers.


















Again these use a wireless connection to the sound bar so no more trailing cables to the back of the room. These will add a true surround sound experience to your movies and music!

This is the first of a whole new range of amazing products from Bose that will once again place it firmly at the top of everyone’s must have list.

At Car and Home Stereo we will be stocking the full range of these systems and we would welcome you for an audition at our showroom on Sunderland Street in Macclesfield, Cheshire.



If you would like to know more, please don’t hesitate to call us on 01625 432707.

Why Sound Deadening?

In the pursuit of great sound it is essential to consider all aspects of audio reproduction. JL Audio, Audison and others make tremendous speakers which have been carefully designed for accurate music reproduction, unfortunately we have to fit them into less than perfect environments!

The average car door is an acoustic nightmare. A thin, unsealed metal enclosure fronted with hard plastic fittings, often with a loose polythene moisture barrier as well.car-door- explodedCrucially, we want the full, uncoloured response from the speaker we are installing. Unfortunately the design of the door is working against us. Fundamentally, a speaker is a transducer converting electrical signals into pressure waves. Sound is generated from the front of the speaker and from the back.

This is important as the sound from the back of the speaker is playing into the car door. Some will be reflected back into the speaker cone causing distortion of the front signal. Some will be reflected into the door card creating unwanted resonance and annoying vibrations. The louder you want to play it, the worse it will be. speaker distortion


Some car manufacturers do apply a token amount of damping but this is just to prevent the panel from rattling, we want to optimise the enclosure for sound reproduction.

The answer is sound deadening. Quite different from sound proofing, sound deadening is about the control of pressure waves inside the door. By applying special materials we can eliminate unwanted resonances and reflections.

There are lots of different products out there but by far the best are Dynamat and Skinz. Dynamat Xtreme is the lightest and most efficient panel treatment I have ever used. It’s damping properties are second to none meaning less needs to be applied. All sound being radiated from the back of the speaker is absorbed and converted into low level heat. This of course stops unwanted vibrations and ensures that you only hear the sound from the front.dynamat door A liberal application of Dynamat behind the speaker prevents reflections.

I believe that it is essential to consider sound deadening whenever a speaker upgrade is installed. Otherwise you will never achieve the full benefit.